Filling Gaps In Drywall Before Taping

1. Filling Gaps In Drywall

You can use regular old pre-mixed compound to fill in the gaps. Just make sure that you scrape it down after it dries, simply because it will sag, or slump.and you want it smooth, prior to placing tape over the areas. When you apply your tape, make sure that the tape covers over the gap. I am wondering what the best way to fill large gaps is. There were some plaster walls. On this site. Always use proper safety precaution and reference reliable outside sources before attempting any construction or remodeling task! Go to YOUTUBE.com and type 'TAPING DRYWALL'. They will walk you. Fill the crack with new drywall compound, and apply a thin coat of compound to the wall surface where the old tape was removed. While the compound is still wet, place a strip of fiberglass tape over the seam, bridging the gap between the ends of the existing tape (image 4). Use a putty knife to gently flatten wrinkles and to.

ALTHOUGH gypsum wallboard, more often called drywall, is much easier to apply than plaster, one part of the process is a common stumbling block: sealing the seams between panels with drywall tape. This is a crucial step in finishing a surface, because if done poorly the taped seams are difficult to disguise by sanding and painting. In addition, the tape may loosen or develop wrinkles, requiring that the job be done over.

But taping drywall seams is not so difficult. Thorough preparation and having the correct tools for the job are the keys. If you have never taped drywall, start in an inconspicuous location like the interior of a closet. A little practice goes a long way. Ms word free download.

The materials needed for taping drywall are premixed joint compound, a putty that acts as filler and adhesive; paper drywall tape, several drywall taping knives (6-inch, 10-inch and 12-inch; the smaller of these resemble putty knives), and a corner trowel, which has a wide blade folded at right angles and is used to smooth inside corners where two walls join.

First, prepare the surface of the already-attached drywall panels. Usually this consists of little more than inspecting the seams for flaps of torn paper facing and lumps of loose gypsum filler. Both should be removed using a sharp utility knife, the goal being to produce a reasonably smooth exterior surface over which to apply the tape.

Protruding nail or screw heads must be driven slightly below the surface of the drywall, enough so they dimple the facing but do not tear through it. Fill the dimples and any other small holes, dents or depressions with joint compound, by spreading compound over the spot using the 6-inch knife held nearly parallel to the surface. Smooth the spot and remove excess compound by drawing the knife blade over the spot again, this time with the knife held nearly perpendicular to the surface. Make the second pass with the knife at right angles to the first.

Many professionals also use joint compound to fill deep cracks where the edges of drywall panels meet imperfectly, or where panels meet the corners of uneven plaster walls. However, thick applications of compound crack and applying several thin coats can add much time to the job.

A better solution is to fill gaps one inch deep or less with patching plaster or plaster of paris. Fill to within one quarter inch of the surface. These materials dry quickly without cracking and will not soften when joint compound is applied over them. For deeper cracks, use perlited basecoat gypsum plaster, applied the same way. Drying time for this material is longer than for the other two, but the benefits are similar.

After surface preparation, taping can begin. Stir fresh joint compound thoroughly (a heavy-duty electric drill with a paint-mixing attachment eases this task) until its consistency is that of soft cream cheese. Scoop enough compound from the container to partly fill a bread pan (professionals use a mud pan), then scrape down the inside of the container to prevent residue from drying and falling into the unused compound, causing lumps. Close the container tightly to keep the compound moist.

To tape a seam, use the 6-inch knife to spread a layer of compound the width of the tape and approximately one-eighth of an inch thick along the entire seam. Hold the knife nearly parallel to the surface. Then either cut off a full-length strip of tape and press it gently into the compound at several places with the knife, or unroll it along the seam, pressing it as you go, and cut it at the end.

Afterward, regardless of the method used, hold the tape in place with one hand and press it evenly along its entire length into the compound with the knife. Smooth out wrinkles and bubbles completely, then draw the knife over the full length of the tape in a single stroke to eliminate ridges. Finish by drawing the knife along the edges of the tape with the blade held nearly perpendicular to the surface. Smooth the excess compound outward in as thin a layer as possible against the wall.

Apply a second, thinner layer of compound over the tape after allowing the first layer to dry at least 24 hours. Use the 8-inch knife this time. Smooth the surface and feather the edges well. Twenty-four hours later, repeat the process using the 12-inch knife. Bear down hard on the knife to apply a layer even thinner than the previous one. After this layer of compound is dry, rough spots on the seam can be sanded smooth using fine-grit sandpaper. Apply primer to the surface before painting.

Inside corner seams are taped the same way, except that the tape should be cut to length and creased down the middle before it is applied, and the corner trowel used for the first and second layers of compound. Corners often require four applications of compound to smooth them.

Outside corners generally are not taped. Instead, a strip of perforated metal corner bead is nailed over mating edges of drywall, and several layers of compound are applied to the surface, each one smoothed.

Recently, self-sticking tape made of fiberglass mesh has become available for use in place of paper tape. Fiberglass tape is easier to apply and does not require an initial layer of joint compound. This makes it excellent for use by amateurs and on difficult areas, particularly ceilings. However, fiberglass tape is considerably more expensive than paper tape, and some experts feel that because it does not shrink slightly as it dries - a characteristic of paper tape - it does not seal joints as well.

Check that the drywall is attached to the wall studs correctly. Drywall should be fastened to all wall studs it covers, every six to eight inches (15.2-20.3 cm) along the length of each stud. Ideally, it should be supported at each edge every 8 to 12 inches (20.3 to 30.5 cm) in the middle of the panel in a wall framed 24 inches (61.0 cm) on center, giving you top to bottom 5 screws; in a more usual wall with studs on 16 inch (40.6 cm) centers, you will have a row of screws on each edge plus two rows spaced 16 inches (40.6 cm) in from each edge.

Filling Gaps In Drywall

• Drywall screw guns are far easier to work with. Don't mess around with a drill or power screwdriver. Borrow a drywall driver or invest in a counter-sinker designed for drywall applications that attaches to the end of your drill. These tools perfectly countersink every screw you place if you drive them straight.
• Make sure your screws are correctly countersunk. You want the screws to lightly dimple but not tear the paper coating of the drywall.
• Run the blade of your drywall finishing knife over the screws to make sure none are sticking out. Remove, countersink or otherwise deal with any screws that are sticking out even a little bit. (This will save you much frustration, since you will have to drive every single one you miss when you are applying the mud.)
• Avoid drywall nails, unless you simply refuse to borrow a drywall driver. The chances of a nail bending, putting your hammer through the drywall or simply an incorrect countersink on the nail head are great. If you must nail, put them in in pairs about 1-1/2 inches (3.8 cm) apart and give the first another whack after you drive the second. Only use nails to tack up drywall sheets and then secure them with screws.